Tuesday, August 3, 2010
Sunday, August 1, 2010
Mindanao University of Science and Technology
REPUBLIC OF THE PHILIPPINES
MINDANAO UNIVERSITY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY
C.M RECTO ST.LAPASAN, CDO
PRESENTS..
EDUCATIONMAL TECHNOLOGY 2
THE 13TH MAJORS OF BSED -TLE4B
MINDANAO UNIVERSITY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY
C.M RECTO ST.LAPASAN, CDO
PRESENTS..
EDUCATIONMAL TECHNOLOGY 2
THE 13TH MAJORS OF BSED -TLE4B
Thursday, July 22, 2010
BASIC CARPENTRY
Basic Carpentry
Basic carpentry skills are necessary to be able to complete home renovation, home building and other construction projects. A carpenter or home renovator needs to be able to layout a building site; determine the elevations of a site excavation, and concrete footing and other components; build concrete footing and wall forms; frame and sheath floors, walls and roofs; and build stairs. This site provides that information and a way to incorporate the perfect rectangle, the Golden Section, into building projects.
Our Learning based on drawing we did:
The Flooring, Truss Diagram, The Wood Joints
Types of Roofing:
Basic carpentry skills are necessary to be able to complete home renovation, home building and other construction projects. A carpenter or home renovator needs to be able to layout a building site; determine the elevations of a site excavation, and concrete footing and other components; build concrete footing and wall forms; frame and sheath floors, walls and roofs; and build stairs. This site provides that information and a way to incorporate the perfect rectangle, the Golden Section, into building projects.
Our Learning based on drawing we did:
The Flooring, Truss Diagram, The Wood Joints
Types of Roofing:
Architectural Drafting
Architectural Drafting
Drafting and technical drawing are fundamental skills and tasks in the field of architecture as well as in the fields of engineering and science. In architecture, drafting aids in the design and construction of buildings, helps to communicate and present ideas, and renders buildings.
The need for architectural drawings and designs may require the drafter to create or record floor plans, site plans, elevations, cross sections, projections, perspectives, measurements, scales, annotations, and a whole host of other details that specify how a building or object is or how it should be built.
This is my compilation of the drawings:
Drafting and technical drawing are fundamental skills and tasks in the field of architecture as well as in the fields of engineering and science. In architecture, drafting aids in the design and construction of buildings, helps to communicate and present ideas, and renders buildings.
The need for architectural drawings and designs may require the drafter to create or record floor plans, site plans, elevations, cross sections, projections, perspectives, measurements, scales, annotations, and a whole host of other details that specify how a building or object is or how it should be built.
This is my compilation of the drawings:
Handicrafts
Handicrafts
is also known as craft work or simply craft, is a type of work where useful and decorative devices are made completely by hand or using only simple tools. Usually the term is applied to traditional means of making goods. The individual artisanship of the items is a paramount criterion, such items often have cultural and/or religious significance. Items made by mass production or machines are not handicrafts.
Usually, what distinguishes the term handicraft from the frequently used category arts and crafts is a matter of intent: handicraft items are intended to be used, worn, etc, having a purpose beyond simple decoration. Handicrafts are generally considered more traditional work, created as a necessary part of daily life, while arts and crafts implies more of a hobby pursuit and a demonstration/perfection of a creative technique. In practical terms, the categories have a great deal of overlap.
This is my cross stitch finish product
This is the Basic fundamental weaves:
The finished product of my stuff toy making:
is also known as craft work or simply craft, is a type of work where useful and decorative devices are made completely by hand or using only simple tools. Usually the term is applied to traditional means of making goods. The individual artisanship of the items is a paramount criterion, such items often have cultural and/or religious significance. Items made by mass production or machines are not handicrafts.
Usually, what distinguishes the term handicraft from the frequently used category arts and crafts is a matter of intent: handicraft items are intended to be used, worn, etc, having a purpose beyond simple decoration. Handicrafts are generally considered more traditional work, created as a necessary part of daily life, while arts and crafts implies more of a hobby pursuit and a demonstration/perfection of a creative technique. In practical terms, the categories have a great deal of overlap.
This is my cross stitch finish product
This is the Basic fundamental weaves:
The finished product of my stuff toy making:
Graphics Science and Arts
Graphics Science and Arts
This kind of subject is one of the exciting and artistic major also because it enhances our skills in drawing, painting , carving etc. I learned a lot of hands-on in this subject it tested our patience, creativity, determination on the project and it helps me to add knowledge on business in this kind of major.
How to bind a book:
Ever wanted to make a journal that was exactly the way you wanted it? Or maybe you have access to a print center at work when no one's around and you enjoy printing off novels (of *course* I wouldn't do that...).
But how do you make that magical step between loose pages and a beautiful, fully bound volume? Here is some procedures that I like to share it with you:
step 1Prepare your materials
This is, unfortunately, going to require some materials that you won't be able to find around your house. I have included suggestions for scrounge materials you could possibly switch in, but no guarantees as to durability or looks. I would also highly recommend printing out the entire instructable so that you have it handy-- your hands will be full (and sticky!) enought…
step 2Cut and fold the pages
Cut the pages to the proper size, which is the height you want them to be and twice the width So, if I want 8.5 x 5.5 pages, I would use 8.5 x 11 paper (landscape style) Or if I want a 9 x 5 it would be 9 x 10 paper. Then fold them in half "hamburger" style (fold the long edge in half) and collate them into signatures. A "signature" is a small packet of pages new…
step 3 Mark the signatures for binding
Mark 1/2" in from the top edge and 3/4" in from the bottom edge.
Then measure the space in between and divide by the number of binding strips you'll use.
In general, three suffices. If the book will be thick, use four, or five if you're really worried.
Mark them across the spine.
step 4Cut the cerf and punch the holes
Now, using scissors, snip out little triangles at the head and foot marks. (You're really supposed to saw it with a little hacksaw, but I doubt many people have a handheld hacksaw lying around). Then punch the awl through the edge marks, careful to punch them directly out of the spine and not the page. Thread the needle with waxed thread.
step 5Cut and sew the bindings
The bindings need to be cut to the thickness of the book (when all signatures are together) plus an inch or so.
The first signature you should sew are the first endpages, followed by signature 1 of the book, then the rest.
Insert the needle *into* the head and draw all but about 2 inches through. Then go *out* at the first punch you come to and pull it tight. Go *in* to the next hole-- but make sure that the binding is between the thread and the spine (as in the image). Repeat for as many bindings as there are, then come out through the foot notch. Prepare the next signature.
Step 6 Sew easy! (says the black kettle)
Sew up the next signature in the same way (except you'll be entering at the foot stitch), and then the third. When you're at the bottom of the third (notice the zigzagging back and forth), kettle stitch it to the second.This means to take the needle, put it *under* the thread running between signatures 1 and 2, then put it through the loop that's formed. From now on, you'll kettle stitch the whenever you reach a head or foot.
NOTE: It is very important to continually pull the slack out of the thread--the tighter the binding is, the stronger the book!
step 7Finishing the signatures
When you've sewn all the signatures together, double kettle stitch the final head or foot. Then take the PVA and squirt some onto your finger (or a paintbrush, but you finger works better and it's fun to peel off the glue) then rub it *into* the spine. It is important that some (albeit just a bit of) glue gets in between the signatures and fills in the spine. When this is done, cut a piece of cloth (not bookcloth) to a little bigger than the dimensions of the spine. Stick this onto the wet glue and smooth it out. Then cut a piece of heavy cardstock to the exact dimensions of the spine and glue it onto the cloth. Rub it smooth.
NOTE: During all this, make sure the bindings are centered and sticking out! I once clipped one off while trimming the card, so be careful.
step 8Preparing the covers
While the spine glue is drying, pull out your cover material and measure it.
You want:
The width of the pages plus 1/4"
The height of the pages plus 1/2"
(Make these as square* as possible)
Make two of these, obviously-- the front cover and back cover.
It is important to add the extra space so there's overhang and the cover completely protects the pages.
Cut the paper you are going to cover the cover with to:
The cover width plus 1/2" or 1"
The cover height plus 1/2" or 1"
This allows it to wrap over the edges and inside enough. If you look at a bound book, there is about 1/4" of the cover paper on the edges of the inside before it gets covered by endpaper.
Then prepare the spine piece-- a piece of coverstock the exact dimensions of the spine. It doesn't need to be papered (it'll be covered up by the bookcloth). Glue the coverpaper onto the cover, making sure that it is centered (I like to apply glue to the board, then lower it onto the paper.) Flatten it and work out all of the air bubbles with something round (I'm using a tin whistle in the picture), then apply glue to the edges of the paper, folding it over onto itself. You can either have square folds, or cut them with a knife/scissors into lovely 45 degree dovetails.
step 9Cut 'n' Paste (well, glue anyway)
Cut the bookbinding cloth.
it needs to be:
height of the covers plus 3/4" or so
amount of cloth you want on the cover (I like 1.5 to 2") times two plus half an inch
(so, for example, (1.5 x 2) = 3 + 1/2 = 3 1/2 inches wide)
step 10Admire!
Ta-da! You've created a marvelous thing-- a nicely hand bound book. And you did it all by yourself (with a little help!)
You're amazing!
And here is my finish product of book binding and wood lamination:
This kind of subject is one of the exciting and artistic major also because it enhances our skills in drawing, painting , carving etc. I learned a lot of hands-on in this subject it tested our patience, creativity, determination on the project and it helps me to add knowledge on business in this kind of major.
How to bind a book:
Ever wanted to make a journal that was exactly the way you wanted it? Or maybe you have access to a print center at work when no one's around and you enjoy printing off novels (of *course* I wouldn't do that...).
But how do you make that magical step between loose pages and a beautiful, fully bound volume? Here is some procedures that I like to share it with you:
step 1Prepare your materials
This is, unfortunately, going to require some materials that you won't be able to find around your house. I have included suggestions for scrounge materials you could possibly switch in, but no guarantees as to durability or looks. I would also highly recommend printing out the entire instructable so that you have it handy-- your hands will be full (and sticky!) enought…
step 2Cut and fold the pages
Cut the pages to the proper size, which is the height you want them to be and twice the width So, if I want 8.5 x 5.5 pages, I would use 8.5 x 11 paper (landscape style) Or if I want a 9 x 5 it would be 9 x 10 paper. Then fold them in half "hamburger" style (fold the long edge in half) and collate them into signatures. A "signature" is a small packet of pages new…
step 3 Mark the signatures for binding
Mark 1/2" in from the top edge and 3/4" in from the bottom edge.
Then measure the space in between and divide by the number of binding strips you'll use.
In general, three suffices. If the book will be thick, use four, or five if you're really worried.
Mark them across the spine.
step 4Cut the cerf and punch the holes
Now, using scissors, snip out little triangles at the head and foot marks. (You're really supposed to saw it with a little hacksaw, but I doubt many people have a handheld hacksaw lying around). Then punch the awl through the edge marks, careful to punch them directly out of the spine and not the page. Thread the needle with waxed thread.
step 5Cut and sew the bindings
The bindings need to be cut to the thickness of the book (when all signatures are together) plus an inch or so.
The first signature you should sew are the first endpages, followed by signature 1 of the book, then the rest.
Insert the needle *into* the head and draw all but about 2 inches through. Then go *out* at the first punch you come to and pull it tight. Go *in* to the next hole-- but make sure that the binding is between the thread and the spine (as in the image). Repeat for as many bindings as there are, then come out through the foot notch. Prepare the next signature.
Step 6 Sew easy! (says the black kettle)
Sew up the next signature in the same way (except you'll be entering at the foot stitch), and then the third. When you're at the bottom of the third (notice the zigzagging back and forth), kettle stitch it to the second.This means to take the needle, put it *under* the thread running between signatures 1 and 2, then put it through the loop that's formed. From now on, you'll kettle stitch the whenever you reach a head or foot.
NOTE: It is very important to continually pull the slack out of the thread--the tighter the binding is, the stronger the book!
step 7Finishing the signatures
When you've sewn all the signatures together, double kettle stitch the final head or foot. Then take the PVA and squirt some onto your finger (or a paintbrush, but you finger works better and it's fun to peel off the glue) then rub it *into* the spine. It is important that some (albeit just a bit of) glue gets in between the signatures and fills in the spine. When this is done, cut a piece of cloth (not bookcloth) to a little bigger than the dimensions of the spine. Stick this onto the wet glue and smooth it out. Then cut a piece of heavy cardstock to the exact dimensions of the spine and glue it onto the cloth. Rub it smooth.
NOTE: During all this, make sure the bindings are centered and sticking out! I once clipped one off while trimming the card, so be careful.
step 8Preparing the covers
While the spine glue is drying, pull out your cover material and measure it.
You want:
The width of the pages plus 1/4"
The height of the pages plus 1/2"
(Make these as square* as possible)
Make two of these, obviously-- the front cover and back cover.
It is important to add the extra space so there's overhang and the cover completely protects the pages.
Cut the paper you are going to cover the cover with to:
The cover width plus 1/2" or 1"
The cover height plus 1/2" or 1"
This allows it to wrap over the edges and inside enough. If you look at a bound book, there is about 1/4" of the cover paper on the edges of the inside before it gets covered by endpaper.
Then prepare the spine piece-- a piece of coverstock the exact dimensions of the spine. It doesn't need to be papered (it'll be covered up by the bookcloth). Glue the coverpaper onto the cover, making sure that it is centered (I like to apply glue to the board, then lower it onto the paper.) Flatten it and work out all of the air bubbles with something round (I'm using a tin whistle in the picture), then apply glue to the edges of the paper, folding it over onto itself. You can either have square folds, or cut them with a knife/scissors into lovely 45 degree dovetails.
step 9Cut 'n' Paste (well, glue anyway)
Cut the bookbinding cloth.
it needs to be:
height of the covers plus 3/4" or so
amount of cloth you want on the cover (I like 1.5 to 2") times two plus half an inch
(so, for example, (1.5 x 2) = 3 + 1/2 = 3 1/2 inches wide)
step 10Admire!
Ta-da! You've created a marvelous thing-- a nicely hand bound book. And you did it all by yourself (with a little help!)
You're amazing!
And here is my finish product of book binding and wood lamination:
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